Today we had to get ready to leave for the SA camp in Longido, about 2 hours north of Arusha. And of course, after being told to be at HQ at 8am I woke up at 8:30. There's no rush in Africa, but with GSC a lack of punctuality will make you look like an ass. After rushing and not even eating breakfast, I arrived with absolutely no repercussions, and we were actually going to leave at 10 am. Awesome. After shooting the breeze for that time, we finally drove up. I was so excited to actually see some savannah, since Arusha is pretty lush since we're right near Meru. I saw some acacia trees and lots of sand. It was great to see the Maasai men herding cows on the main road, and we often had to slow down to let the bulls pass.
I really amazed how for several miles at a time, the roads were being constructed and the construction was really organized just like it'd be in the states. Except it was a one lane highway. After I asked 'why fix a road that takes you all this way out here?' I was told that this very road leads cars to Nairobi. There were several safari companies and overland trucks filled with tourists as we passed presumably taking them to Dar or to Nairobi. We were prewarned also, not to take pictures of Maasai as we passed. Apparently, they have a beleif in which they cannot have pictures taken as it is a form or soul stealing. I have a lot to figure out about these people. And apparently they get pretty pissed if you happen to steal a photo, they'll throw rocks at your car and chase you down the highway.
As we arrived in Longido, the scenery was again amazing. It was so dry, and the main road reminded me much of the landscape in an old western film. There were dried cacti looking plants, empty streets and saloons. We had to detour through town head office to register our business there. I'd been so worried about our lodging and accomodations but I thought the guest house set up was fine. No hot running water, and we would be bathing with bucket baths, which is not a big deal. We walked around to survey the neighborhood, and we live in a dominately Maasai area. There are tons of wild birds, and a lot of lizards.
After dark, there isn't really much to do. However, its supposedly safer than Arusha so it's safe to walk around at night. Not that I would anyway. We went to dinner then were offered to set up a film in a more remote Maasai 'boma', an area fenced off where the houses are and where the cows sleep at night. We drove down the main road and into complete nothing for about 30 minutes. The Land cruiser was bumpy and rocky the entire time, however it was incredible the amount of moonlight we could see.
When we got out of the car, we had to negotiate with the Maasai elder about where we could set up for the film. Our GSC counterparts were translating and talking while all of a sudden dozens of children came running out of the boma to greet us. As I waited and began playing with the children; high fiving and saying hello, one of the counterparts was doing the traditional chanting of the Maasai to entertain them. Suddenly, a Maasai woman, a mother came from out of the boma and rushed up towards me. I thought she was going to scold me for playing with the children; however she took my hand and excitedly greeted me in Swahili 'Mambo!'. She was beautiful, I could tell even in the moonlight, she was bald like most Maasai women and her ears were adorned with the traditional large silver dangly earrings. She was wearing purple and red cloth and dozens of bangle bracelets on her arms. She said something to me in Maasai, which was later translated to me as an offer that if I became Maasai I would be a beautiful wife and I can wear as much jewelry as I wanted. I laughed, nervously. Why did she point me out, of everyone?! She then took my hand, and hurredly lead me into the boma. I was afraid, looking behind as the other counterparts, still negotiating the deals of the movie were looking on. No one was allowed in, and here I am going in! Three weeks ago, I wasn't even sure if I was going to be able to come to Tanzania, and here I am in the middle of the night being led by the moonlight by a Maasai woman into a boma that she won't let anyone else into!!When we reached the entrance, I was blown away. There could not have been less than 200 bovines, asleep and gathered around a large open area enclosed by acacia thorns. It was such an amazing sight, and so poetic to be able to see this in the moonlight. I was so afraid I was about to be kidnapped and made Maasai!! However, I learned through the translator that she showed me her family's herd of cattle as a sign of respect and Maasai are very proud of their herds. I would be proud too!! Soon, all of the children came back towards where the cows were sleeping to shake my hand again. I tried to say thank you, and taught them 'asante (swahili) in kiingereza (english) means 'thank you' and soon they were all bubbling and saying 'thank you' and shaking my hand.
The elder decided against showing the film, despite our original plans to be there. The excuse was that he felt there were not enough people there, as he had not told many of the wives and children about our arrangement. And there was some discussion that we wanted a sort of stipend to serve us 'wageni' tea. Go figure.
As we settled back at the house, and I prepared for bed I realized I would be sharing a room with a sort of nudist (ughhh). Oy vey. Tomorrow we wake at 5 to vaccinate chickens! The SA program begins!
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