Sunday, September 26, 2010

September 24

Day 18 in Arusha! Well not even all of it in Arusha. We spent the week in Longido, and boy do I want to get back to Arusha! I had some mild frustrations with the week, beginning with the lack of urgency in getting things done. We were warned of the struggles to get things done on 'African time', but nothing was quite like the reality of it. Everyday I found myself asking, 'Whats going on'? "What are we doing/" Who are we waiting for?' several times. And I could never get a straight answer. I kept thinking we werent' getting anything done.

We began at 6am on Tuesday with the chicken vaccinations. Turns out, everyone in the village we went to had let the chickens out already. We just skipped to breakfast. Then we were scheduled to follow up with farmers who had their trainings several weeks ago, to see their progress. What a dud. It seemed everyone had interpreted to their own advantage the material that GSC had taught them. No one had built a single raised bed, no one had made compost, a nursery and had just planted their seeds about 2 inches apart from each other. No one understood the advantages of this to produce a higher yield, etc. And most discouraging, no one had kept their booklets with the important information GSC had distributed. However, they were kind of understanding that we pressed them about it. And apparently, as an mzungu holding a form and asking a lot of questions they seemed to believe we knew what we were talking about.

The next morning it was again on to vaccinating chickens but at least I was able to get in on the action! I had my gloves, and was able to put the drops into the chicken's eyes, no I didnt have to touch them. Yuck, everyone who knows me well knows my serious avian phobia, so this was quite a feat for me!! Tuesday night we rectified that whole issue with the movie with the Maasai, and were able to get the projector working. Mostly children came over the 'cinema', some women and only one man. He didn't really look interested. It was most interesting to see their reactions to the film because it was not what anyone had expected. The documentary was made in Senegal, and some of the women had very pronounced cheekbones and the males in the film were strong and muscular. There were so many giggles and talking back to the screen during the film. So what was so funny? Apparently, some of the young Maasai women were making fun of how large the men were, and said the faces of the women looked 'surprised' because they were different. It was interesting to their their views on other Africans, and unfortunately they interpreted this as the 'face' of HIV AIDS. One of our interns tried to explain that their physical features had nothing to do with their HIV status, which cannot be seen on anyones' exterior. I'm not sure how well they retained this, as everyone pretty much dispersed when the projector turned off.

Wednesday, it was again with the chickens. I'm becoming less and less interested with the stupid chickens and more curious about how people live. For instance, we visited a boarding school which happened to have a chicken coop out back. As we vaccinated, we saw one of the little boys who was much much darker than the others and his face was covered in acne-like bumps. But he could not have been more than 9 years old. One of our project coordinators explained that his skin is a strong symptom of a sexually transmitted infection, or a combination of syphilis and gonorrhea. I was shocked that a child this young could have already displayed signs of an STI, and my colleague said this could have been transmitted through touching blood or other fluids from an infected person. It sounded bad enough to be in a boarding school in the middle of nowhere, Tanzania (which never have good conditions) nonetheless with a physical reaction to an STI. It was a very clear call to the urgency of sexually transmitted disease in the country.
That afternoon we did a double dig bed demonstration and I taught a class on composting. I didn't have to do much work digging the beds, as there were some high school kids who generously did much of the work. And then walked right up to me and asked me for my email. No, I lied, I dont have one. In America, no one has email. Sike, creepers!  We then prepared a tarp to cover someone's hafir (a huge hole in the ground to save rainwater in the rainy season for gardening).

Thursday we began the day again with chicken vaccinations, and did a whopping 130-something. We were slated to build a hafir that afternoon, about 8x1 meter and 1 1/2 meters deep. This time, we did most of the digging. The instructions to dig were very clear, but not work for 1 person to do herself, ahem themselves. In these societies, its very clear that the mama will be the one doing this type of work.

Besides these activities, it was very easy for me to feel useless. More frustrating was everyone's reference to my contributions here with GSC as if I were some kind of useless angelic being--who just because I'm too chicken to vaccinate chickens, however will graciously compensate in any other way I can help, will discredit anything I will contribute to the program. Anyone who knows how hard I fought to get this program will know I dont deserve to have this kind of reputation. Everytime I ask a question, I will ensure that I get a clear answer, and I wont tolerate being treated like an imbecile when I have a concern. Perhaps being the only girl, with no farming or camping or outdoor experience makes me some kind of idiot, but it wont be long before that gets cleared up.

After this grueling week, I was soooooo happy to be back to my comforts in Arusha--my queen sized bed at my homestay and my own room!! My mama wasn't home unfortunately, so I made the schelp to town to buy a cell phone. Now anyone with money to make international calls can call me!! On my way back 3 little girls on my street were skipping rope, and invited me (via "mzungu girl come jump"). So I jumped rope! I thought some kids would be afraid of me, but I made some friends I guess! I jumped for about 3 minutes and was so out of breath, and incredibly embarrassed that passersby were now stopping to see a non-Tanzanian skipping rope so I stopped. Tomorrow is safari day!!!

September 20

Today we had to get ready to leave for the SA camp in Longido, about 2 hours north of Arusha. And of course, after being told to be at HQ at 8am I woke up at 8:30. There's no rush in Africa, but with GSC a lack of punctuality will make you look like an ass. After rushing and not even eating breakfast, I arrived with absolutely no repercussions, and we were actually going to leave at 10 am. Awesome. After shooting the breeze for that time, we finally drove up. I was so excited to actually see some savannah, since Arusha is pretty lush since we're right near Meru. I saw some acacia trees and lots of sand. It was great to see the Maasai men herding cows on the main road, and we often had to slow down to let the bulls pass.
I really amazed how for several miles at a time, the roads were being constructed and the construction was really organized just like it'd be in the states. Except it was a one lane highway. After I asked 'why fix a road that takes you all this way out here?' I was told that this very road leads cars to Nairobi. There were several safari companies and overland trucks filled with tourists as we passed presumably taking them to Dar or to Nairobi. We were prewarned also, not to take pictures of Maasai as we passed. Apparently, they have a beleif in which they cannot have pictures taken as it is a form or soul stealing. I have a lot to figure out about these people. And apparently they get pretty pissed if you happen to steal a photo, they'll throw rocks at your car and chase you down the highway.

As we arrived in Longido, the scenery was again amazing. It was so dry, and the main road reminded me much of the landscape in an old western film. There were dried cacti looking plants, empty streets and saloons. We had to detour through town head office to register our business there. I'd been so worried about our lodging and accomodations but I thought the guest house set up was fine. No hot running water, and we would be bathing with bucket baths, which is not a big deal. We walked around to survey the neighborhood, and we live in a dominately Maasai area. There are tons of wild birds, and a lot of lizards.
After dark, there isn't really much to do. However, its supposedly safer than Arusha so it's safe to walk around at night. Not that I would anyway. We went to dinner then were offered to set up a film in a more remote Maasai 'boma', an area fenced off where the houses are and where the cows sleep at night. We drove down the main road and into complete nothing for about 30 minutes. The Land cruiser was bumpy and rocky the entire time, however it was incredible the amount of moonlight we could see.

When we got out of the car, we had to negotiate with the Maasai elder about where we could set up for the film. Our GSC counterparts were translating and talking while all of a sudden dozens of children came running out of the boma to greet us. As I waited and began playing with the children; high fiving and saying hello, one of the counterparts was doing the traditional chanting of the Maasai to entertain them. Suddenly, a Maasai woman, a mother came from out of the boma and rushed up towards me. I thought she was going to scold me for playing with the children; however she took my hand and excitedly greeted me in Swahili 'Mambo!'. She was beautiful, I could tell even in the moonlight, she was bald like most Maasai women and her ears were adorned with the traditional large silver dangly earrings. She was wearing purple and red cloth and dozens of bangle bracelets on her arms. She said something to me in Maasai, which was later translated to me as an offer that if I became Maasai I would be a beautiful wife and I can wear as much jewelry as I wanted. I laughed, nervously. Why did she point me out, of everyone?! She then took my hand, and hurredly lead me into the boma. I was afraid, looking behind as the other counterparts, still negotiating the deals of the movie were looking on. No one was allowed in, and here I am going in! Three weeks ago, I wasn't even sure if I was going to be able to come to Tanzania, and here I am in the middle of the night being led by the moonlight by a Maasai woman into a boma that she won't let anyone else into!!When we reached the entrance, I was blown away. There could not have been less than 200 bovines, asleep and gathered around a large open area enclosed by acacia thorns. It was such an amazing sight, and so poetic to be able to see this in the moonlight.  I was so afraid I was about to be kidnapped and made Maasai!! However, I learned through the translator that she showed me her family's herd of cattle as a sign of respect and Maasai are very proud of their herds. I would be proud too!! Soon, all of the children came back towards where the cows were sleeping to shake my hand again. I tried to say thank you, and taught them 'asante (swahili) in kiingereza (english) means 'thank you' and soon they were all bubbling and saying 'thank you' and shaking my hand.

The elder decided against showing the film, despite our original plans to be there. The excuse was that he felt there were not enough people there, as he had not told many of the wives and children about our arrangement. And there was some discussion that we wanted a sort of stipend to serve us 'wageni' tea. Go figure.

As we settled back at the house, and I prepared for bed I realized I would be sharing a room with a sort of nudist (ughhh). Oy vey. Tomorrow we wake at 5 to vaccinate chickens! The SA program begins!

September 18

Today was such a great day!! I definitely feel more accomplished than I ever have in my entire life! For some reason, someone mentioned climbing part of Mt. Meru to reach some secret waterfall. Yesterday while training in Terengeru I thought I was invincible and decided it was a good idea. This intuitive vibe I've been getting here is really crazy and I hope to control it quickly! However, I'm so glad I did it! I've seen more of Tanzania this way. We met at 8am at the stoplight in town and were told the hike would take all day. I had no idea what I was getting myself into. It cost each of us $22 to pay the porter (a former GSC counterpart) for the hike and also park fees. It was a very long walk through a small part of town, somewhere near the street I live on. It was easy hiking, and all of a sudden it got intense!! I soon realized why everyone who climbs mountains trains for super long, and they were surprised when I agreed I'd make the trek. The slope was increasingly vertical, and soon I realized we were ascending at a super scary 50 degrees! The morning air was very dewy and it had just rained so the soil was very slippery. I knew I wasn't going to make it. We continued ascending for what must have been about 100 feet in less than 1 hour. Roger offered us rests, one of which we saw a beautiful Tanzanian woman coming down the mountain with no less than 10 pounds of greens on her head, coming down the very slope I declared myself nearly dead from climbing. Wait people actually live here?!!! How do they get to town!!! We watched as she went down the slope in small sandals (this was after she hit up the other volunteer for some money) and she didnt even fall once. After all these realizations, I still had to keep going UP. Oy vey, why did I get myself into this?!!

I kept trekking, and I could not believe the gorgeous views there were. It was better than a calendar, I kept saying. There were lush rolling hills with terrace farms down its slopes. I was shocked that there were so many homes on the hills of Mt. Meru which seemed closed to uninhabitable. As we walked, there were many homes made of mud with straw roofs, like those archetypical homes one would see on television. Everything was incredibly picturesque and so sublime. The slopes still only got more intense, and I had to hold the porter's hand to avoid falling! The other volunteers were so far ahead of us that at times I couldn't even hear their voices talking, while I was heaving and hyperventilating ages behind them, lagging the porter with me!

I was so relieved when we reached Roger's house, where we were slated to have lunch. I literally almost cried when I saw the hotel right near my homestay, which was now a millimeter on the horizon incredibly far away. I could not believe I had made it that far away, and was somehow expected to make it back later on!! As we looked over the view, I noticed that in my moment of heaving coming up that last leg of hill I stepped on a colony of worker ants, which now took haven in my pants. I felt them biting my calves and one was in my hip. When I looked down there were dozens on my sneakers and I knew they were in my socks. I whimpered and almost cried as I felt them walking in between my pants, and seeing those suckers--they were about 4 centimeters long each!! The other two volunteers helped me shake my legs and tap down my legs as I removed my sneakers. Almost as soon as I thought I'd be ok, I felt another one in my hip. I again had to excuse myself to take out the ant. It was awful.

Finally feeling confident I had removed all of them, we continued the trek upward. It did not get easier. Ascending the foothills of Meru, there were more forested landscapes and grasses were plentiful. After hiking upwards for what seemed like forever, we realized we had to descend now a hill that sloped nowhere less than 90 degrees to reach the creek that fed the waterfall. Nope. Not gonna do it. We still had to rest for a little bit, and I consented to going down the muddy slope to the lush rainforest below. I did it, albeit almost crying, slipping, and holding the porter, Roger's hand the entire time. At the creek below, there were some kids who helped me out too, making sure I didn't fall and die. To love somewhere so remote, their English was excellent!

For the following 30 minutes, we basically played frogger over the river rocks to pass from one side to the other. I slipped and fell into the river a few times, and got a few laughs while the others and the children had no problem. One of them was even barefoot! We climbed a couple more mossy rocks and finally saw a waterfall that could not have been more than 10 feet tall. WHAT?!! I got out of bed at 6 in the morning, nearly died climbing a mountain, to see a small leak of water?!! Another volunteer reassured me it was worth the trouble.....some crap about the 'beauty of nature'. I was so relieved when the porter announced that there was actually another real waterfall. As we walked for about another 10 minutes, seeing the waterfall really took my breath away. The entire falls was semi hidden in an 'outdoor room' carved away in the mountain's surface. There were already many Tanzanians there, who hooted and congratulated us 'wazungu' for actually making it to the place. We were actually only there for about 20 minutes, since it would take so long to come back. It was so amazing, and really worth the trouble, including almost breaking my face a few times.

On the trek back, I fell a few more times, almost died only once or twice but I think its healthy that's getting my blood going. One of the most bittersweet moments of the entire day was really the kids we passed the entire time. I'm not sure if these children see foreigners often, so whenever they would see me, they would not let go! However, there is so much desperation in their eyes you can't help but feel terrible when you deny their requests for money or food. One small girl, about 9 maybe when other children were holding my hand and helping me walk up the hill, grabbed my wrist tightly and demanded money. Also, its terrible to admit this as a foreigner but I was so hesistant at times to let them hold my hands since many have visible colds or heavy cough while they're holding your hand. One can simply say 'hapana' or no in town, but I had to say 'let go' and huff away. I felt like such a gross American tourist but there are so many risks in getting sick here! Many of the children were in such tattered clothes, white caked on ash and dust on their feet, as most had no shoes on. It was very emotional to be able to at least give something.

When we finally made it back to flat ground, I was so relived and felt so accomplished. I had learned so much, and really did have so much fun. Will I do it again? NEVER. However, its highly recommended for someone who has good shoes ( not skippys, like me) and in good enough shape to not breathe like a '55 Thunderbird the entire time. What was the best way to celebrate this feat? Kilimanjaro beers all around! Beer that costs 50 cents and tastes delicious, more so after you were so close to falling off a mountain and breaking you face? Awesome!!

Great moment of the day: Some of the many people we encountered that the porter knew, followed us for a bit right after I climbed that 90 degree wall in the rainforest. I laid down on the grass and let down my hair, and they all gathered around me. I thought they thought I was dying, but they were in awe over my hair! Even some of the children that were with us crossing the river were staring and one asked in Swahili to our porter if I was African. One of the other older men agreed and said I have 'jungle hair like an African woman' because its thick and wavy. My question then, why am I always mzungu?!!

Bonus moment! There was a lizard in my bedroom and I tried to explain to the housegirl this, except she doesnt speak English. So after some sign language and me drawing a lizard on a notepad she came into my room and shook the curtain where the lizard had been hanging out. Except she threw it in my luggage. I spent an hour right after coming back from Meru looking for it. Still didn't find it. Have fun in my clothes till I find you asshole! I don't even know if I can kill those things, I certainly don't want to touch it. Oy.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

September 16

Orientation is almost over! I can't believe soon it'll be a week that I've been here! Time has really passed quickly. Today we built a compost pile. Nothing like I've ever done before, lots and lots of rabbit poop. Then, another lecture on raised beds and how to organize companion planting. The companion planting I get, the nursery stuff I don't. Anyway, I have to make it work because tomorrow we have a demonstration and then some time next week we might have to teach something!! To Maasai! We had a similar schedule to yesterday, lunch at Mary's and another Swahili lesson.
Dinner at my homestay was interesting, my mama wasn't there and she's the only one who speaks English. So I had to wing it with the housegirl and the mama's son, Dennis who is 15 years old. He is very much into hip hop culture and sings along to all the words to Neyo songs and LOVES Jay-Z. I tried to ask him 'nipendo Jay Z'? Which means 'do you like Jay Z?'. He smiled and said yes so I responded by saying 'ahhh, ninatoka New York City, Brooklyn'. He looked confused so I think I made him confused. Which means I believe the listen to the words and music but I'm not too sure if many young people know anything about American artists. The entire meal was very interesting, the television in the dining/living room area was playing BET videos (not from cable, but there are dvd videos available throughout Arusha that have a bunch of music videos) with two people who dont really speak English yet they know all the lyrics to 'Umbrella' and even some reggaeton songs!!

I really cant wait for tomorrow, especially the trainings next week. Lets go see some Maasai!!

September 15

What an incredibly long day! This morning, was busy packing to leave the hostel to meet the host family this afternoon! We took a dala to Terengeru to visit the demonstration plot where we saw in action some of the farming techniques we'd be teaching next week. There were so many vegetables and plants growing, and so many combinations together on one bed, or growing together in one section of the garden.
Actually getting to Terengeru was one of the strangest things I'd ever experienced. I'm beginning to hate being constantly called 'mzungu' or white person every time I walk down the street, or when I'm in a shop and someone notices a foreigner's inside. And you can't imagine how funny it is that people here think I'm rich!!

Besides the unusual culutral differences, and getting over my big issue with personal space on the dala, we headed to the office of William Rile, an instructor with GSC who would be giving us a basic training about BIA and some practice lessons we would take with us next week when we go to Longido!! My allergies almost hindered my understanding of the material, but I got a crash course on gardening and sustainable growing of vegetables. I'm so nervous at the thought of having to teach this to a group of farmers as early as Monday!! Aaaack!!

I'm sure my dad will get a kick out of that, me teaching Africans how to farm-after 20 years of city life versus their thousands of years of pastoralism and farming.  Anywho, I have to study the strata of compost layers, and the right temperatures for compost and whatever because I have to be prepared when they ask questions.

Lunch was quite interesting because we ate at the home of a local woman who works on the demo plot, Mary. She lives in a small shack with two separate bedrooms and one outdoor cooking area. I couldnt find the outhouse, so I dont know if there was an area for bathing or whatever. We ate on a folding card table with some of us sitting on her bed and the others sitting on a couch eating mkande (stew of hominy or corn and beans) and sauteed chinese cabbage. Besides the digs in which we had to eat, the food was great and Mary is really quite a host.

After that amazing lesson, we took the dala back to Arusha for one more Swahili lesson. Nope, still can't speak Swahili. The ultimate test of my ability to endure a third world country--meeting my homestay mama!! At the hostel, we were given a slip of paper with our mama's name on it, mine was the former mama of the head volunteer coordinator, which made me feel good like I was in good hands. Mama Elly drove me to her home, which is pretty amazing even compared to where I live in New York! Its a pretty cute little cottage right up from this super long dirt road, with many roosters and chickens kind of hanging out all over the road. I have my own room with a HUGE full sized bed, and a mega walk in closet. Plus, I know I'm going to be really comfortable, the food is delicious and everyone is super nice. I have nothing bad to say about these people. Mama Elly was pretty excited and happy that I had no complaints about the food, nor that I'm not a vegetarian because the food is so similar to Dominican food (rice and beans and plantains every night!!) Most amazingly, Mt. Meru is right outside my window!!

Tomorrow its back to Terengeru to continue learning and also to dig a double dug bed. I'm pretty nervous about it, I dont know how I'll hold up nor what footwear is appropriate.

Funny moment of the day: On the dala on the way back from Terengeru, a man hopped on and sat on the seat next to me. Of course, not smelling great like everyone here who happens to not practice armpit hygiene. He looked at me and smiled and put his arm around me! I was scared and turned around for the assurance of the volunteer coordinator who told him in Swahili that I didn't appreciate that. Dude, you stink, and thats not the way to treat a lady. Let alone an mzungu. Hmmmmm.

Friday, September 24, 2010

September 13, 2010

Day 2 of SA program! This morning at the hostel we woke to the same breakfast as yesterday...guess the menu doesnt change much around here. One thing that just confused me, why does everyone drink and sell only instant coffee? I remember in Whole Foods and even Starbucks some of the most expensive coffees are grown in this region and in Kenya. I had to settle to Africafe instant coffee, unhappily.

After breakfast, we again trekked up to the GSC office for a second day of orientation. My feet were killing me! Stupid hiking boots. When we arrived my feet were blistered from walking in the tough dirt, since it had rained I tried extra hard not to slip. However I tried to recover, as we listened to a guest speaker named "Mama Beti' who shared her story about how her husband gave her the HIV virus and how she is coping and sharing her natural foods diet with other HIV patients. Her story was very touching; every angle of how she found out she had the virus to how she was transmitted. It turns out her husband, a Maasai, was having extramarital relations (typical in the culture) and had passed it on to her. Because of this, as she began feeling ill, she checked herself out in an HIV clinic. It was startling how she was not given the proper information because the nurses and those in the clinic did not want to give her the results. As it turns out, many Maasai wives were killing themselves after finding out their HIV/AIDS status. After finding out, she ran into a nun who told her she was not going to die, and that she should protect her health and immunity by changing her diet to include more natural vegetables to build her immunity. Mama Beti began to share with us dozens of tricks to give the body more vitamins, and tonics she often prescribes HIV patients to begin healing.

I was struck by her description of her relationship with her husband, who after giving her the virus did not take responsibility for doing so and then ceased supporting their children. However, she says she would not divorce him because it is shameful and she calls their relationship only a 'separation'.

My favorite part of the day was right after when we met with another woman 'Mama Moshi', who leads an organization called 'Women for Action in Development'- a brilliant Tanzanian NGO that somehow runs an orphanage, womens' resource center, legal representation, a micro lending program and a primary school catered to battered and disadvantaged women in the Arusha/Moshi area. Her account of violence on women in Tanzania was astounding. Similarly, the work Mama Moshi has done in the Arumeru area has been with high school students on HIV/AIDS prevention. She told us a story of how in one training session, there were students who did not understand proper condom use and would often share with each other used condoms under rental, and she says this was only several years ago. I'm not in the HIV program here, but will be in Cambodia so I have some questions and obviously some fears about that. 
We also met with Dr. Mollel a Maasai doctor who works with villages and was there to share with us HIV AIDS in the Maasai community. His testimony of the problem of HIV AIDS in the rural villages really drew some ire in me!! Here are a sampling of some of the notes I scribbled down,
  • men have total supremacy for all matters in the culture
  • women have absolutely no say on ownership of property, children, financial decisions, and sadly, sexual roles
  • women are forbidden to say no to any sexual desires of her husband, or she is ridiculed or beaten
  • many Maasai practice age sex grouping, a pattern of seasons in male circumsicion. They circumcise for maybe 10 years, stop and then start again for 10 years so to create a gap in mens age groups. Wives of men in an age group can be shared if the husband's peer so decides to show up to his house when the husband is not around. And the husband cant say jack, imagine the wife! (Note: allegedly the Maasai in Arusha dont really this theyre more monogamists. But I hear some people in the villages we will be in two weeks practice age set group sharing)
  • Maasai are polygamists. When a wife has a child, she cannot have sex with her husband for another two and a half years. What does he do in this time....drink chai and get chummy with a new wife.
  • instruments for circumsicion (male and female) are not washed in the entire period of age set grouping.
  • women do ALL the work in tending the children and cooking. Men only take care of the cows and bulls. Maasai dont farm, traditionally anyway. Thats what we're here for.
  • So incidentally, men refuse to eat ANY kind of vegetable. They think thats for women and babies. All they do is eat meat, and drink cows blood. Not great for your health if you've got AIDS
It shall be really interesting to go to these villages next week and have to deal with some Maasai men and not want to make judgements! However, I shall muster up some courage and put my fist down.

We also learned a bit of kiswahili,I can now say 'jina langu ni Stephanie' which means "my name is Stephanie" and "ninatoka marekani, jimbo la new york": Im American and i live in new york. After lunch I realized I am soooo not going to lose weight, the food here is way too delicious and theres too much of it and its so damn cheap!! Tomorrow, we've got more training and we;'ll be going to terengeru to visit the GSC plot and begin real Sustainable Agriculture training! I'll be sure to get dirty! Stay tuned!

Sunday, September 19, 2010

September 12, 2010

Day one of Tanzanian program! Woke up at hostel to breakfast of eggy and three enormous slices of toast. I've learned quickly what life will be like here for the next two months! Shouldnt take long baths, cannot brush my teeth with any of the water, and most places will not have toilet paper unless you ask. Otherwise, I have been pretty comfortable. We got a light tour of Arusha today, most of the town is not very modern and for one of the largest cities in Tanzania its pretty unusual it only has one traffic light.

One of the most frightening things is that there is a 'danger bridge'-when I asked I was told this is where everyone gets raped, killed, or robbed. Totally cool, and we have to pass it when we come from the hostel to gsc HQ. The GSC office is majorly nice, and a great representation of what the organization is about. There are lots of plants and flowers which grow around the office. We were treated to one of the newest techniques the sustainable agriculture program is working on; food drying. I tasted some dried pineapple, dried chayote (thought of my dad!) and some swiss chard. The volunteer coordinators told us these techniques are useful because they hold up pretty long and can be reconstituted in hot water.

Lunch in Tanzania is incredibly cheap! For about 3,000 ($2 USD) shillings you can grab a large plate of food, delicious food. I had grilled kingfish and mashed potatoes for this price, in a restaurant which largely serves tourists. Apparently, Tanzanians don't typically pay this much for food in restaurants. I think I'm gonna like it here.

We had dinner at Center House, which turns out is a Catholic run hostel that serves wuzungu (white people aka foreigners). We sat with a priest who was talking about the Catholic faith in Africa while we shared some of the trends in Catholicism and Christianity in general in America. He was pretty surprised there was really such a downward attendance in churches, and when I told him churches were being closed in New York City he couldn't really believe it was true. He said this very weekend they were ordaining 4 priests and 9 deacons, with still a good amount in seminary. I will look forward to attending mass here in Arusha to really see the differences.

Moment of the day: Today while walking through town, one of the bajillion street vendors trying to sell me something didnt believe I was American, and he kept asking if I was German. Apparently I dont look wazungu enough. Hmmm

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Today is the Day!

I've been waiting for this day to come for the past year. Not sounding like I've been concocting something evil, but I am so anxious and really totally unprepared for what is about to come. No really unprepared, I don't even have a sunhat, which according to everything I've read is apparently essential since its regularly upwards of 90 degrees.  I have no clue how to get around an airport, I don't know what to do when I have to get them to stamp my passport, I don't know what to do when applying for the visa. I bet I'm the genius everyone says I am, right?

Besides my travel woes, I've been anxious about my arrival and to be honest, survival in Tanzania. Vaccines and vials of antibiotics are taken care of. Whats more confounding is that after all the money I've spent on protecting myself from bugs being in my insides, and in preventing mosquitos from eating all my skin I've learned there is still an actual possibility I may get sick. Thanks modern medicine. So this blog will detail all of my worries, moments of grief and perhaps even a daily counting of my inflammed mosquito bites.

I am working in agriculture which undoubtedly may present anecdotes of injuries and lessons involving sharp tools and copious amounts of soil and earthworms. Stay tuned. In all seriousness, after 8 weeks of probably the most enlightening and humbling experience of my life, I will then proceed to 5 weeks in Phnom Penh, Cambodia where I will be working in HIV/AIDS prevention teaching Cambodians about measures to prevent the spread of the AIDS virus through culturally sensitive, and effective classes. I've learned we will be doing this through singing and dancing. Postings of my embarrassment and eventual finding of a hidden talent may also present themselves in this blog.

Dont forget pictures!! When I manage to get that thing in the mail I ordered all the way from China, and then have my mom mail it to me in Tanzania, I will get my pictures off of that little SD card and into some computer and share all of the beautiful vistas in Tanzania with you all. Check out my facebook too!

I hope I don't just talk to myself, so please leave comments. And I'll write back and answer all of your questions, because those of you who know me, my big mouth knows no boundaries and not even the internet can quell my gift of gab. I love you all!! See you next time when I'm sweating in an internet cafe in Arusha!